Sunday, 21 December 2014

Perth 20th – 31st December 2014

31st December

Mike took another early morning ride but this time along the Swan River on the north side to just opposite Point Walter Golf Club. There was plenty of activity on the towpath and on the river, even the odd SUP. When he got back to the house Sheila fancied a swim so we both strolled across to the beach. As yesterday it was relatively crowded at 8am, even with the life guards out on duty with their yellow boards at the ready.

We had a cooked breakfast, and after dropping off the loaned bike back to friends of Phil and Becks, we headed into Fremantle to see the Maritime Museum. We had been given 50% museum discounts from the tall ship trip and decided to take advantage. Mike spotted the Ikara, a missle launched torpedo that his uncle had been involved in developing for the Australian Navy many years earlier.   


Ikara Missile

We headed back to the house to get loaded up with windsurfing kit for an afternoon session at Pelican Point. The wind looked good when we arrived but dropped off a bit and then when we were packing up the wind got up again! However, we had an evening appointment so couldn’t hang around. 


Mike at Pelican Point



Becks and kite surfer

We dashed back to the house, showered and then took a train to Mosman Park to go to an outdoor cinema to watch “Gone Girl”, which was proceeded by some blues music. (Mike's last experience of an outdoor cinema was in 1969 to a USA dive-in-movie!) 

The cinema venue were offering food and drink, so we ordered paella and a couple of bottles of bubbly. The evening was relatively warm but there was still a sea breeze and hoodies were needed before long. 

We got back to the house by 11:30pm, took a quick cup of tea and a chocolate and then headed out to watch the New Year’s fireworks from the riverside looking towards both Fremantle and Perth. Not really close enough to get the best views but close enough to experience the ambience of the moment and listen to the music being played near Point Walter, on the opposite side of the estuary.   

New Year Eve's Fireworks

Happy New Year to all blog readers
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30th December

Mike went out at 7am for a bike ride up to Cottesloe and back, around 10 km there and back, and was staggered by how much activity was going on, both on the beach, in the sea and along the pathway. There were canoeists, paddle boarders on SUPs, swimmers, cyclists, dog walkers and power walkers. 


Leighton Beach crowded at 8am


We played golf in the morning in Fremantle and afterwards did some desperately needed shopping. After a light lunch we decided to just chill out in the cool of the house since the outside temperature was probably up to 37C or more. Phil and Becks came around in the evening and in cooler conditions we had a BBQ.

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29th December

We fancied a relaxing day so started late and played golf at the Point Walter Golf Club just on the south side of the Swan River, with views to the river at times. The hire clubs were not brilliant and all steel shafts but both of us hit some good shots and Mike felt after 6 weeks in Australia his tee and fairway shots were getting back into gear as were his chips shots, even managing pars. The temperature was probably around 33C but the breeze from the sea and the plentiful shade offered by the trees meant that the conditions were reasonable. However, the play was relatively slow but we were in no hurry.


Walter Point Golf Course

After an afternoon snack back at the house, we loaded the car with windsurfing gear and headed off to Pelican Point to go windsurfing.  Unfortunately the wind was relatively light and Mike’s largest sail was too small (5.3m) for the conditions. We therefore headed along the estuary and up to King’s Park and the King’s Park Botanical Gardens that afford a superb view down onto the city of Perth and the massive Swan River estuary, a great place to promenade in the late afternoon sun. (We had spotted this vantage point when our Sevenoaks friend had directed us to tennis yesterday.)  


Perth from Mt Eliza Escarpment

It is not until you are on the escarpment that the width and length of the Swan River estuary is brought home. It is around 2km at the widest point and 6km in length, a great area for water sports.


Swan River Estuary 

The Walter Point Golf Couse is just opposite Chidley Point Reserve at the right hand (east) end of the" relativey" narrow channel that links the estuary to the sea.

The evening was sealed with a curry and beer/wine with Phil and Becks at our house following their return from two days windsurfing at Lancelin, where apparently the conditions were good.

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28th December 

The morning was spent around the house and then we went off to meet a friend from Sevenoaks who has an apartment in Perth overlooking the Swan River. She lives in Perth 6 months in the year. 


She had invited us to play tennis at her club, called the Royal Kings Park Tennis Club, now part of the Next Generation Kings Park.  The club is on the edge of the botanical gardens of Kings Park and was founded in 1899 and in the past has hosted international matches including the Davis Cup between Australia and visiting countries.  We played in their Sunday social event and everyone was extremely friendly both on the courts and in the bar afterwards. 

Sheila at Royal Kings Park Tennis Club

The courts were all grass, a rare treat for Mike & Sheila to experience but quite common in Australia.


Sheila in action (spot the ball)



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27th December

Sheila, myself, Phil and Becks took a trip to Rottnest Island, 19km off the coast of Perth/Fremantle. Phil and Becks met us at the North Fremantle Station with bikes and we all cycled down to the ferry terminal. The general public cannot drive on the island, so it is either “Shanks Pony” or cycling hence taking our bikes across on the ferry. The ferry travels at speeds up to 26knots and out stripped other motor boats that tried to out run it. 


Rottnest Ferry

However, a couple of windsurfers did try it on one occasion and from the video look as though they succeeded. See the end of the follow clip around the 9:40 minute point: www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ck3O6s8uqpo&sns=em  (Thanks Phil for the web link.)

The island is reputed to have 60 sandy beaches and 20 secluded bays and it didn’t disappoint; pure white sand and beautiful clear blue water.


Intrepid travellers take a welcome break

Accommodation is available on the island with both a hotel and chalet type buildings. Cycle ways go right around the perimeter of the island and one goes across the centre.  The island is 11km in length and 4.5 km at the widest point. We cycled somewhere in the region of 15km.


Rottnest cyclists


The island is home to the Quokka as well as a colony of NZ fur seals; we saw the former but not the latter. Dolphins also visit some of the bays. The island gets its name from the Dutch word meaning rats nest, since originally the Quokka was mistaken for a large rat.

Quokka

In the centre of the island there are a number of salt lakes some with a striking pink  Coloura-tion. The pinkness is due to algae called beta-carotene growing on the salt crystals.

Pink Lake

We stopped off at a couple of bays to go snorkelling and saw a range of fish.

Becks with flippers & mask


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Boxing Day 26th December

On Boxing Day we were provided with a mystery present, which was a trip on board an 1850’s style tall ship named the Leeuwin II. 


Leeuwin II Tall Ship

The ship is used by the Leeuwin Ocean Adventure Foundation to provide youths, aged between 14 and 25, the opportunity to take part in a sailing programme to gain team work and leadership experience. Typically the youth training trips last for 7 days.

Trainees on the yard (spar) sorting out the sails

The Foundation also provide 3 hour trips for the general public with the trainees manning the ship, which is what we were going to experience.  While on the ship one can help to raise the 16 sails, climb the bow sprit, climb the mast and take a guided tour or just relax while the crew take care of the sails.

Leeuwin's new crew

We went with Phil and Becks and we all took part in various activities.  

Hoisting the mainsail


Mike & Phil climb the mast

Sheila climbs the bow split

Some just relax!

The multitude of sheets (ropes) to raise the sails is mind boggling with nothing labelled so the crew use rhymes to remember the sequence of sheets.

A few of the numberous sheets

We had light winds going out, which limited the problem in raising the main sail but after an hour into the trip the wind got up and we were sailing at just over 4.5 knots. There were around 10 people hoisting the main sail and that still required a good deal of effort on each person’s part.


Following the sailing experience we took a walk around the Fremantle town.


Fremantle Town Hall


Christmas Day - 25th December

The day started with a beach party with Phil and Becks' friends and a swim in the sea, which was great to cool off.

Christmas presents

 We took dinner around 4pm but with no turkey in sight. The event took place at the house where we are staying and included a couple of friends of Phil and Becks and their young daughter of 2½ years. 

Becks prepared a tequila cocktail to start the proceeding. Phil barbequed shrimps, snapper fillets and skewered chicken, the latter to have with satay sauce. 

Phil BBQs dinner

The ladies prepared various dips and salad type dishes and desserts.

The ladies get dressed up for Christmas

The menu was perfect for the Perth summer climateDinner was taken at a leisurely pace with visitors leaving around 10pm. 

Christmas Dinner

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Wednesday 24th December

Not sure we have mentioned this but we are hosting Christmas, 6 adults and 1 child, so we undertook a bit of tidy up in the house in preparation. However, the real mystery is going to be breakfast on the beach. It sounds as though there may be many more than 6 and no clue yet as to the order of proceedings, but to avoid starving we will take a bite before, not least since Christmas Dinner is not until 4pm.

Decided to play a quick game of golf in the morning at Mosman Park Golf Course a few minutes away and overlooking the Swan River. We were given an introduction via Peter, a brother of a friend back home. Peter lives locally.

Mosman Park Golf Course

After golf we headed off to do some last minute Christmas shopping plus getting Mike a haircut by a local barber in Cottesloe. The experience was very entertaining with three barbers; one from Dublin, a second from Lancashire and a third from Italy, the latter looked as though he had already started celebrating and was busy trying to persuade the other two to finish. Sheila had decided to take a drink in the café next door, which took almost as long to arrive as the hair cut!

After a spot of lunch we headed down to Pelican Point since wind was reported. This is the location for the regular Wednesday Windsurfing Western Australian (WWA) racing. 



If you turn up on a normal Wednesday for the racing events you get a free pizza and beer – a great deal. 


Phil is secretary and Becks the treasurer and we know a man who has 100 tee shirts going!


Becks at Pelican Point


The wind was a bit fickle but with a large sail or low body mass planing was feasible, neither of course applied to Mike who was sailing a 5.3m sail not to mention the body mass. A quick session on Phil’s 7.5m sail showed him what he was missing or had in excess!   

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Tuesday 23rd December

We planned to meet up with a tennis friend of ours for coffee at 11am in Cottesloe but Phil had organised an early SUP lesson for Mike so we headed down to Manners Hill Park Esplanade for a quick training session. Without a windsurf sail to hang onto it's more difficult than it looks, especially against a head wind and current.


Before training....




...after.

Photographers turn next... !

In the afternoon we headed down to Pelican Point near Matilda Bay area on the river with the thought that we might catch a late afternoon breeze and go windsurfing but there was very little wind so we went for a stroll. We saw a pelican and later a couple of dolphins in the water.


Pelican Point (not stuffed!)



Young & energetic!



Dolphins at Pelican Point

Phil has furnished us with a car for the 25 days in Western Australia, owned by a guy in the UK who hasn't been in Australia for the last two years. Annabel also knows him from her days at Cambridge.  The car is a 1996 Nissan Pathfinder and certainly needed some care and attention by Phil before it was worth risking taking too far. 

So the cons are: it has none of the high-tech kit that we have become used to over the last 5000km of driving cars in Australia, such as iPod players, reversing camera/sensors etc. The windscreen washer doesn't work so we are carrying a bottle of water to pour over the window when it gets dirty! It needs an intricate procedure to lock it up. It has wind down windows, a barely functioning radio and a dead power socket at the front. 

On the pro side: it could hit a kangaroo at full speed and not even twitch and more importantly it can carry a windsurfer inside with masts and sails. Not sure what we are going to do with the luggage yet!



Blast from the past!

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Monday 22nd December

We are staying in a house of a friend of Phil and Becks who have gone back to the UK for Christmas.  It is very unique inside with a centre open plan area and rooms off the side. This is where Christmas will take place after a beach breakfast.


Perth accommodation

House location 

The house is situated midway between the beach and Swan River with about a 5 minute walk to each.   In the maps above it is at the neck where the distance between the sea and river is shortest and marked by a star.  The lower star on the river side is Pier 21 where will be staying from the 11th to14th January.

We had a lazy day exploring the local area.  


North Fremantle Beach 

Note the ships waiting off the coast to enter Fremantle harbour.

We took a walk the other way towards the river and down to Pier 21 where we will stay at the end of our stay.


Swan River in the background

Mike aimed to get Sheila reclining on the tree but she spotted unknown bugs so declined the invite.


Brown marmorated stink bugs 

It turned out that Sheila was correct not to sit down since these bugs release quite a stench when threatened!   Thanks Fred (Cook) for identifying them.

No bugs on Mike

In the evening we all went into the city for dinner to meet up with Katie who was in Perth for a wedding following her trip to Everest base camp.  This completed our task of seeing all of the resident family in Australian. 



Finally tracked down the last of the Australian Matthews family 


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Sunday 21st December

On Sunday we headed down to Safety Bay. The boys had plans and Becks was taking her second kite surfing lesson further up the beach so Sheila was resident photographer.

Mike finds his sea legs again!

Phil heads out


....and lets rip 


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Saturday 20th December

Virgin take off..

We arrived to some of the warmest weather we had experienced since leaving Queensaland. Perth has clearly plenty of sun, sea and sand not forgetting of course windsurfing, women and wine (with a few kite surfers!)

Sand sampling on Cottesloe Beach


This page is likely to be a collection of photos as we intend to enjoy ourselves over the Christmas period.  If we get inspired then we may add some words! 

Victor Harbor 19th December 2014

Victor Harbor Trip

We rose, had a breakfast in our studio apartment, and headed off to have morning tea with my Uncle.  We soon got chatting and could have easily spent the whole day talking since it had been years since Mike had last met him and there were many things on which to catch up.

Eventually we headed out in the car and along the coastline taking the opportunity to go to a number of lookout points around the coast to get a view of Victor Harbor from the west of the bay. He used to own a house in Encounter Bay directly overlooking the sea and was originally the family holiday home since they lived north of Adelaide. When he retired it became their main residence. 

We took a quick toasted sandwich for lunch and then headed out east through Port Elliot (Horse Shoe Bay), Middleton and onto Goolwa where the Coorong National Park starts. Along the coastline we stopped at strategic points to get a few photographs. In Horseshoe Bay we missed, by only 20 minutes, seeing a “brown snake”, one of the most poisonous Australian snakes, which was lurking around one of the public toilets near the beach. A woman had photographed it with her mobile phone so we now know what to look for or avoid.  Sheila was brave enough to use the facility even though she had been told before entering. (Perhaps her encounter with the red-bellied black snake has made her less fearful of Australian wildlife.)

Reunion at Horseshoe Bay

There is a train, called the Cockle Train, which runs from Victor Harbor all the way to Goolwa, and probably manned by volunteers since we saw a number of people painting the level crossing gates near where we stayed.  The train, used to be driven by steam but now is diesel for environmental reasons, and only runs a half dozen times a day from 10:30 to around 5pm. This was quite a relief to Sheila since our studio accommodation backed onto the line. However, we only spotted it once along the coastline. At least one of the level crossings has a gate, some have warning lights but some have only warning signs with no gates or lights – so you do need to make sure you look. 

Cockle Train

The Coorong National Park, which we had passed on our route from Penola to Wirrana Cover (via Adelaide) is basically a stretch of inland water, 30-40km long, with sand dunes separating the sea from the Murray River estuary with a number of islands. Goolwa was once a thriving river port, the last before the Murray River meets the Southern Ocean.  At Goolwa there is a barrage, as there is further up the estuary, which moderates the amount of water leaving the estuary. The sand dunes have one opening to the sea and this is the Murray Mouth. From Goolwa one can pick up a paddle steamer (the Oscar W) and travel the length of the estuary. 

"Oscar W" Paddle Steamer

The estuary is home to pelicans and many other birds.  We spotted a NZ fur seal doing a balancing act on the outside of the barrage.


Tight-rope walker!

Before heading back we drove over a stylish bridge onto Hindmarsh Island and along the coast to see the Murray Mouth at the closest point for a non-4WD vehicle.  The dunes here are for ever shifting and a sign that my Uncle had seen on his previous visit 3-4 years back has been nearly covered with sand.

The Murray Mouth 


Coupled cube cottage

Tomorrow we fly to Perth but will attempt to find time for a quick walk along the 600m causeway to Granite Island, just to say we did it!

Saturday, 20 December 2014

Kangaroo Island to Victor Harbor 18th December 2014

Kingscote to Victor Harbor

We spent a couple of hours in Kingscote before heading to the ferry in Penneshaw.  

Over the hill and far away!

The ferry was just coming into the harbour as we headed down the hill into Penneshaw. 

Ferry arriving in Penneshaw

Again the closeness of the packed cars on the ferry was impressive with a couple of cars behind us parked to within 4” (100mm)!

Sealink parking!

The Range Road across the Fleurieu Peninsula from Cape Jervis to Victor Harbor had more interesting and varied landscape than Kangaroo Island with rolling hills and arable land and is probably one of the most attractive places in Australia that we have so far found.  New England in NSW is not far behind and much less populated.

As we headed down into Victor Harbor, with the sun shining, one got the impression of a town with money and smart properties and clearly an up market holiday venue. 

Victor Harbor and Granite Island

Mike even has his own street!

Cutter Court

Off the coast lies Granite Island serviced by a causeway along which a carriage is pulled on tracks by a horse.  We saw the horses resting in their compound but it was too late to see any action.  Just opposite our hotel a seriously fought bowls match was underway with what looked like a high percentage of the men folk of the town, sporting their individual club colours with hardly a woman in sight.

After unpacking we walked into the centre of the town to the Victor Hotel. My Uncle had recommended the carvery and it was certainly a good meal and well-priced.  Mike tried a shiraz from the McClaren Vale wineries just up towards Adelaide but wasn’t overly impressed, otherwise would have noted the specific winery.  

One thing we have noted in Australia is the number of hotels combining bars, restaurants and gaming halls, like a miniature Las Vegas, with always plenty of folks on the one armed bandits.  In Victor Harbor we spotted 3 such hotels and there may have been more.


After dinner we took a stroll down the road away from the town and spotted a number of croquet lawns, a rare sight in the UK. 

At the end of the day we reflected on the fact that we had seen more wild kangaroos on Wirrina Cove golf course by a single green than we had seen on the whole of Kangaroo Island.  (A case for the trades description act?)

Thursday, 18 December 2014

Kangaroo Island 17th December 2014


Day trip

Today we planned to see the southern part of the island that faces the Antarctica and is reputed to be the coldest and the windiest of the shores. Fortunately today the temperature had risen, the sky was less cloudy and the wind had abated. To get there we drove down through the central road for the best part of 100km, mostly along straight roads going on for miles, and headed south to Flinders Chase National Park. Sheila spotted a heath goanna on the road and managed to avoid driving over it!  However, there were many other road kills along the way and on the way back, particularly wallabies.

On reaching the south coast we headed east of Weirs Cove to Kirkpatrick Point, where there is what is labelled the “Remarkable Rocks”. The rocks were created when a granite dome was exposed to fracturing and weathering over 200 million years ago.

"Remarkable Rock"

From the rocks we went down to Cape du Couedic to see the New Zealand fur seals bathing in the sun and playing in the strong surf that was pounding the rocks.   There are about 30,000 NZ fur seals living on KI.  These can travel for miles and one was recorded to have swum to the coast off Tasmania, rested for three days and swum back.  They can also dive to depths of 500m.

NZ Fur Seals

Just around the corner is an impressive arch, called Admirals Arch, that one day will separate another section of the rocks from the mainland.

Admirals Arch

After a further drive down the coast we arrived at Seal Bay and saw the Australian seals jostling for supremacy as they were in the mating season. This is a very limited period of two weeks and since the female seals go through an 18 month gestation period it will not happen again until 2016. The odour from the dominate bulls is unbelievably overpowering.  Unlike their NZ cousins their fur is quite thin. They use their front fins to walk across the beach and dunes. The deepest recorded dive is 275m and they frequently undertake many dives in a day but they don’t travel as far as their cousins. At Seal Bay there is a community of around 700 seals.

Australian male set to

On arrival back in Kingscote we just missed the pelican feeding session done on the harbour but there were still a few around as well as black swans.

Pelican